| |
| Who are we | >> Diary << | Alex Diari | Photos | Project | Answers | Videos | Questionnaire | Itinerary | Sponsors | Other travellers | Collaborate | Contact |
Diary This is Jan's diary. If you want to receive this diary by mail, write your mail on the contact form.
‹ Previous (10/06/2009) MONTH Next (2009-08-09)› ‹ Previous (2009-06-08 - Malaysia) COUNTRY Next (2009-07-21 - China)› Vietnam Ha Noi (see on map) 17/07/2009:
We arrive to Hanoi on Thursday night, after a long journey by train from Hue.From the train station we caught a taxi towards the house from a couple of Romanians from Couchsurfing that Alexandra knew, where we arrive after the taxi driver made a big turn overcharging us more of the double of the normal price. But the evil humour was passed immediately when we met Sebas and Mona, which received us with a hospitality worthy to enter in the Guinness book of the good hospitality -in the same way that the previous couples that have kept lodging us-, even if they commented simply that they had opened us the door of their home. But they left it well opened, because immediately we felt as at home again, especially Alexandra that remained home many times; except for the last Friday, the following day of our arrival, that we went to the embassy of India together to make the visa. The following days that we had to return to the embassy (to pay and to collect the visa) I had to go alone, a great luck for Alexandra because both days was raining very much. The worst day was Monday, when without too much time i was pressed to find some place where they sold me dollars (in the India embassy they do not accept Vietnamese currency, which it is difficult to change for dollars) and the raincoat that i took was insufficient to isolate me from the rain. It rain so much, that the road was flooded one or two palms, through which I had to walk, leaving the collapsed traffic and me more soaked than a duck. Alexandrawas well frightened when I arrived home with the bus. Evidently, we were crossing Vietnam on one of the worst months, in full period of rains; in any case, as i had written previously we cannot complain, because until now we had travelled for half of the world always avoiding the rains. On the other hand, I could not complain either, because despite raining almost all the days, I could discover the city of Hanoi during two days without getting too wet. Hanoi is the second city most populated of Vietnam, after Ho Chi Min City, asset of the Vietnam since the 10th century, except for the 19th century that remained eclipsed in a temporary way for Hue, that the Frenchmen returned to it as the capital, which was kept by the communists. The first day of visit to Hanoi I started to walk from the market of Dong Xuan that mainly sold fabrics. Afterwards I kept walking a completely European vision towards the south for narrow alleys with pagodas protected themselves by buildings of French architecture, up to the cathedral of San José, of Gothic style, if it were not for the Christian vietnameses that visited it i would not have visited it. Next I walked on Hoan Kiem, where there is another pagoda in the centre and up to the park of Lenin, for the side of the lake where there is a big lake and hundreds of Vietnamese are doing sport: running, playing badminton, volleyball with the feet and aeróbic, a habit similar to all the other countries of the southeast Asia, where the girls and women do not seem to have any shame of showing their movements in front of the passers-by that admire them. The second day I visited the temple of the literature (entering for a lateral door without paying...), the first university of Vietnam established in 1070 and composed of different temples, classrooms and different ranks of gigantic turtles of stone that load a tombstone with the names of all the pupils that passed through the university and received a doctorate. Next I walked towards the north up to the mausoleum of Ho Chi Ming that was closed and the pagoda of a pillar that, as its name indicates it is supported by only one pillar erected next to a small lake. I also had a lot of luck that it did not rain during the tour of a day to Halong Bay, one of the icons of Vietnam, a place protected by the Unesco that is nominated as one of the 7 natural marvels of the world. And the sentence probably is worthed, although I only had a very small tasting, visiting a couple of caves and surrounding only one of the 775 islands that form the bay of the falling dragon (the translation from Halong Bay). Anyway, in spite of my short visit on board one of the 500 boats destined to load tourists, I enjoyed a lot imagining me sailing alone among these hundreds of islands of rocks sheer and covered of vegetation, which had its historical importance in some naval battles that maintained Vietnam protected from China. Separately from visiting different monuments and getting wet, i also relax and celebrated my anniversary (37 years, my third anniversary out of home), we also make use of our stay in Hanoi at the house of Sebas and Mona to play an interesting table game and to keep conversations, about Vietnam, Romanía and the life in general. Sebas and Mona told us that in Vietnam, when an owner rents a flat to a foreigner, this has to declare it to the police and to pay some higher rates. Also the costs of the water and the electricity are more high for the foreigners. This is the reason that the costs of the flats of rent in Vietnam for the foreigners are much more expensive than for the houses and to some prices that approach to those of Europe. From this information, I did not find it strange any longer that the Vietnamese want for us to always pay a special price of foreigner for the food and that often they try to cheat. Another day, we were also with Sebas and Mona to a farewell party of a Swiss girl that returns home after two years working in Vietnam. At the party I conversed with a French guy that was 2 years since he came to work in Vietnam. I asked him whether there was communism in Vietnam and the control of the society and he answered me that the economics of Vietnam is based on the capitalism, however, the politic totally is based on the communism (there are spies, complaints, denounces...). For example, he received a book by mail and when he went to collect it, the police confiscated from him and he put a fine for him because the book was forbidden in Vietnam as being anticommunism. Sapa (see on map) 19/07/2009:
Sapa is a place lost among the mountains of the north of Vietnam recommended in all the travel guides (and recommended by all the travellers who have been there). Even though it does not seem like it, Sapa is not a place discovered recently by the mild climate that has, because the Frenchmen already started to settle there from the beginning of the 20th century, in comparison with in the rest of Vietnam. Anyway, the almost 200 colonial buildings that the Frenchmen built in Sapa were destroyed during the war among the Frenchmen and the Vietnamese communists. Since then, Sapa remained forgotten up to 1993, when the Vietnamese government opened the doors to the tourism, local as well as international. In fact, 80 or 90 per cent of the tourism that we observed in Sapa was Vietnamese and that meant a problem to us, because with difficulties we found ticket of train for Friday night, from Hanoi to Lao Cai ( near Sapa and on the China border). The only available thicket was of hard seat, and really was hard, because the seats were in fact wood with a completely vertical back. Alexandra made a scandal, but could not do anything more than accept the situation and try to sleep minimally, very minimally. We arrived in the morning very tired, but in Sapa we found another problem that the weekend caused by the great quantity of Vietnamese that visit the town: there were no free rooms of hotel and those that there were were very expensive. Finally we found one for 12 euros and we locked ourselves to take a good nap. Anyway, I put on the alarm clock mid-afternoon and with many efforts I woke up to go through the surroundings of Sapa to do a hike, going down through a path surrounded with fields of rice and some of corn. More rested, today in the morning i have returned to do another hike, this much wilder, going down for margins, fields of rice and channels in order to prevent from paying the ticket that was charged to walk through the paths. But the adventure has been worth and, although at times i was muddy up to the ankles and with the ass well dirty, i did not stop repeating that there were people that paid a lot of money to be in critical situations as mine. In any case, the amusement was not in the mud, but in the landscape that surrounded me: tens of terraces of rice that went down one under the other over the pending of the mountains, as if it were a magical map in relief that showed its contour curves. On the other hand, during my descent I found myself different houses lived by barking dogs and boys and girls of the tribe of H'mong, that were, much more timid that the other ones that strolled through the town of Sapa trying to sell souvenirs. After rising through a more decent path, I showered in the hotel and we were about to go. Really Sapa deserved a much longer stay, but we had decided some days ago to do the following two thousand kilometres much more quickly to be able to view the total eclipse of sun that shortly would cross the North of India and the centre of China. Evidently we would lose ourselves some places of interest in the path, but in exchange we would have opportunity of experiencing these strange four minutes of darkness under the light of the sun. Perhaps it is an a little absurd sacrifice, but after knowing that many European tourists will visit China simply to observe the eclipse, I have thought that I also have right to a little absurdity. China Kunming (see on map) 21/07/2009:
Formerly there was a train from Hanoi (Vietnam) to Kunming (China) built by the Frenchmen at the beginning of the 20th century, but the line broke down some years ago and the Chinese authorities have not fixed it again. So, after crossing the Chinese border (we needed half an hour to cross it because it was hot and the officers said that we had fever and that we could have the flu) we had to buy a bus thicket with beds. The day after, in the morning we arrived to Kunming where we met with George and where we had to meet also another boy from Couchsufing that had to lodge us, but this boy did not send us the address of his home and tired to carry the bags, we decided to take a room in a hotel. When finally the boy sent us his address after three hours we answered him that it was not necessary any longer and the boy wrote to us again a message full of insults. Perhaps we had luck of not being hosted by him... However, we had a lot of luck of meeting with George, a Chinese of almost 50 years of age but of very young spirit that offered to show us the city. Although it was rainy, George took us to walk through a park, where there were some groups of men and women protected under different roofs that sang and danced happily in front of the sight of the fascinated passers-by. At the end of the park there was a pretty tea house where we stopped. The simple tea was not too economic, although there were other teas (of a year, two, three...) still more expensive. As for these more expensive teas, George told us that there are people who notice the difference in the taste of the tea, and others that only notice the difference in the price. In any case, our tea was very good, with a very long-lasting taste, because every time that a little water emptied a girl was in charge of filling the cup again, so we ended up going twice to the toilet. And this was another memorable experience, because these were totally open, being able to observe even the bottom of the men who were shitting. When I returned and commented this to George, he found it normal, explaining that since small, as there was no communal hot water, all the people were bathing together and naked (separated by gender). During the conversation with George, he explained to us that Kunming is the capital of the province of Yunnan, a province with many minorities, and the one that has the greatest diversity of plants of China, being called the kingdom of the diversity or of the plants. In the same way, Kunming also has a nickname assigned by its mild climate favoured by the 1900metres on the sea level of the city, the "city of the eternal spring". At personal level, George explained to us that he had converted to the Christianity when he emigrated to the States, where he had remained 20 years. He explained to us that in China there are churches of controlled by the government, and familiar churches, in theory forbidden although the government does not ban them any longer. He explained to us that in China many people convert to Christianity, a very new religion, because China is a continental country that has always remained isolated in a cultural way. On the other hand, he also told us that at present in China there is more freedom and that the government is less oppressive; also the media are more open, with less difference between the news that arrives from out of China and the ones produced in the country. Talking on the economics, George explained that the Chinese are very hard working, always wanting to gain more money; this characteristic together with a strong political system, has allowed the economics of China to grow so much. In fact, economically, China is more capitalist than the United States and that provides new problems, for the increase of wealth provokes an increase of the price of the manpower, with many Chinese factories that move to Vietnam where it is more economic to produce. Meanwhile, in China, the people have to get used to looking for work if one does not want to extend the lists of unemployment (the state provided work before for all the people). On the other hand, the secondary school, the university and the health, have stopped being free for everybody, I find it very curious that Europe has better welfare than the communist countries. Chengdu (see on map) 22/07/2009:
We have reached Chengdu at 5 in the morning, me i could sleep but Alexandra without any sleeping. At 5:45 we have taken the first bus towards the centre and we have sent an sms to You, a young Chinese girl that had offered to host us. You has shown us our room and while Alexandra stayed to sleep, I have gone up to the terrace of the block of flats (thirty levels) without too many expectations to be able to observe the total eclipse of sun. The sky was completely covered of clouds that had left to escape some drops exactly some moments ago. Probably, someone too innocent had to think that he could see a total solar eclipse from Chengdu, for even in googlemaps the city is permanently covered of clouds. In spite of everything, some minutes before total eclipse I have had some magical minutes, for the light of the sun has been able to go across the clouds, almost all of it showing the silhouette concealed by the moon. It has been interesting to be able to observe the evolution of this eclipsed with the unprotected eyes, because little more late, the clouds have been put aside more and the light has been so intense that it was impossible to look directly at the sun. Unfortunately, the sun has been concealed again behind the clouds, darkening all the city. The people who were accompanying me on the roof and in many other roofs of the city have started to howl and to scream while I made photos of the city of Chengdu with the lights turned on, as if we were in the night. Afterwards, the light has appeared again slowly behind the clouds, being able to observe during other magical moments the silhouette of the sun, equally in the form of nail, but this time orientated the other way round, proving that really something was passing in front of the sun. Finally it has started to rain. While I took refuge in the entry of the building, I have thought that in spite of the clouds, having reached Chengdu with haste to witness the event has been worthed, because besides that, Chengdu is a city in theory more interesting than Kunming and to prove it to me I have gone to visit the Buddhist monastery of Wenshu once it has finished the rain. The monastery of Wenshu was built during the dynasty Tang (619 -907 AC), consisting of different temples full of people offering incense to the statues of budha, touching with expectation the symbol of the happiness or caressing a dragon of metal. Inevitably I remembered a comment of George in Kunming, who explained us that the majority of Buddhists do not know who is budha nor what he preached, that some rituals only continue to be benefited by the destination (and perhaps happens the same with the majority of Christians or of any religion). Casually, in the temple I met an original boy of some village in the south of Chengdu that explained to me that the people offered peanuts (symbol of the child) to the statues to have male children. Afterwards he explained that buddhism came from india, but that China is, where the traditions and religions are more difficult to change than in the countries that have sea, reason for which they have not entered other religions to China up to the present. Finally, he explained that he had just studied engineering, but that now it would be difficult for him to find work, because China is the country most populated by the world and the working offers are limited. 26/07/2009:
You, a Chinese girl of 18 years that dreams to go to study to France, and her parents have lodged us magnificently in their home. Even, the mother of You made an excellent dinner for us in the first days when also were lodged in the house a French couple and a swiss girl from Couchsurfing. Pity that her parents do not talk any English, although You makes up in excess for this lack with good conversation and information on her culture and the world in general. For example, a day You explained us that the majority of Chinese families are composed of only one son, due to the policy of the only son that punishes with strong fines the families that have more than one son (can get to cost 10.000 euro) being seen obliged, besides, to paying the education of the second son. According to the Chinese government, this policy has subtracted between 300 and 400 million people to the growth of the population and facilitated the economic success of the country, although it has also provoked social problems with sterilisation and obligatory abortions, infanticides and 120% of boys in proportion to born girls. You commented that due to the policy of the only son in China, the cousins are called brothers and the relation that they have is usually so near that it is as if really they were. On the other hand, she also explained that the policy of the only son is not applied to the minorities, that are seen favoured by an increase of the population in all of China (a plus point of the Chinese government, normally accused of ill-treating the minorities). You helped us do the Panda card to enter freely in many monuments, an initiative of the government to help the tourism after the earthquake of Sichuan in 2008, that provoked 70.000 deaths and almost 20.000 missing, leaving about 5 million people without home. In spite of this event, Chengdu is known as the city of the abundance, being also the capital of the province of Sichuan, known with the nickname of the kingdom of the paradise. These nicknames are adapted to the modernity of Chengdu, which could be a European city if it were not for the incomprehensible Chinese characters that fill posters and advertisements and its pedestrians with the long eyes. Another similarity is the great quantity of bicycle lanes that the city has, even though in the Chinese case they are taken up by tens of electrical motorcycles (the only ones that can circulate through the town centre). Thanks to this limitation, the cities (it was also like this in Kunming) are very quiet, although that can be dangerous, because I was more than once to point of being run over by a motorcycle, when crossing a street without looking, still programmed with the habit of India of listening to the vehicles instead of seeing them. Chengdu could also be compared with a European city through its parks (maybe less abundant than in Vietnam), although the atmosphere in these was completely different to any park visited beforehand. In multiple points of the park there were artists who sang deliciously or danced, superposing the music and moves with the loudspeakers. The artists, only with desires of sharing the joy of living with the others, exposed their arts in exchange for nothing. Really it surprised me this extroversion in the parks, especially because i imagined the shy Chinese by nature, but You explained to us that it was normal, for the Chinese like to do things in group and to meet to talk on the life or philosophy, or to play. The latter was another characteristic that surprised me, in different points of the city I observed groups of Chinese playing different table games, which are completely different to those that are found in the west. Thanks to the Panda card that we made, we could enter without paying in the Centre of Research and Baby Animal of Panda, which have different protected areas in the province of Sichuan. We arrived when most of the pandas were asleep, but after giving them food, we observed how the small red pandas played or how two young pandas fought in slow motion to occupy an uncomfortable branch in a tree. It was also curious to observe in an incubator a baby animal of 10 days that it only measured about five centimetres. Helped by the Panda card also we visited other monuments of Chengdu, although this has not avoided us of paying today the visit of Leshan, although we have managed to confuse them and to pay half, as students, presenting our identity cards. In Leshan it is found the biggest sitting buddha bigger of the world ( 71 meters), excavated in the pending of a mountain and facing a large river. Even if it has been raining all the day and that we had to hold a queue of an hour, we enjoyed the visit, which included different excavated caves and other big statues in other pending of the mountain. The difference of religious art between west and east is curious, for while in Europe churches of stone were built, in multiple points of the east big sculptures and temples in the stone walls were excavated. 30/07/2009:
After having said goodbye about four times to our inseparable friends of journey, we have found them again: David, Maria and the parents of David, José and Mariam who travelled with them for a season again. David and Maria had followed their journey through the north of India, Karakorum and west of China, while we came from the south visiting Indochina. They had offered to wait for us in Xian, but in the end decided to wait them and to visit together Emei mountain the following days of their arrival. The first day of reencounter we dedicate it to walk in Chengdu, while we explained all the anecdotes of the journey that we have kept accumulating in the last months. It was a good day, climatically also, because for the first time since we have reached Chengdu the clouds opened and we could observe the blue sky. Unfortunately, the day after blurred again. Even so, we buyed a bus thicket towards Emei and arrived next to one of the entries of the mountain. They had explained to us that from there we could catch a cablecar without paying the entry to the mountain (13euros), but we discovered late the way of making it happen and had to pay the entry. Anyway, all except the parents of David payed half, as students, although I did not have any document to show and ended up showing the DNI of David, making me pass with it as student. This small adventure passed, we got up to the cabler up to the monastery of Wannian (1020 m) from where we started to walk a small asphaltic footpath paved with hundreds or thousands of stairs that threaded the mountain, among some deafening noise of cicadas, a thick and green forest bug and a mist that did not let us see beyond 100 or 200 meters. In spite of everything, after the exhausting effort to rise 900 meters up to the monastery of Huayan (1914 m) we had the prize of being able to observe the peak of the Golden Colour among the clouds. But this prize lasted little, for that on the following day in the morning, after sleeping in a humid room of the monastery we found ourselves that it drizzled, and like this followed as we kept rising through the path of stairs. And that which perhaps confused us, for instead of diverting us to the left to go down on another path of the mountain with a more interesting landscape, we kept going up, until it was too late to turn back. So we decided to keep rising until we arrived at the foot of the second cablecar (2540 m) up to the summit (3077 m), but the time was so bad that after having a tea we went down in bus towards Emei, in the face of the impossibility to see anything among the fog. In Emei we found a decent average hotel where we relaxed until the following day in the morning that we turned back towards Chendu, while our friends visited the big buddha in Leshan. During these many hours shared in the mountain commenting on the impressions that were provoking us the Chinese, in general very nice and occasionally nice, but very noisy and little friendly, preferring to be related or to socialize among them. Anyway, the impression was much better to the one received by different other travellers, that had not talked us too well about China or of the Chinese. Anyway, the travellers that worse had talked us were those that had been working in China, explaining to us that the Chinese were odious for their desires of obtaining of the workers up to the last drop of sweat. On the other hand, we also comment on our surprise of finding a very expensive country, including the products made in China but especially in the transports, hotels and entries to touristic attractions, prices that the Chinese also pay without complaining. Finally, we also laughed a lot commenting on the gestures in China, which are completely different to west. For example, the gesture of smoking (with two fingers in the mouth) in China means eating; or the gesture of taking the tea in China resembles the gesture of... (hand closed in a fist and moving it up and down from the mouth). This difference of gestures can be frustrating, when for example they do not understand you when asking for the bill in a restaurant, making the gesture of writing in the air. But the difference of gestures is still more frustrating to indicate numbers, which are equal up to the number 4, but that they are different for greater quantities (for example, on 10 is done crossing two fingers, one of every hand; or on 7 is done putting the hand in the form of pistol) so that when asking for a price it is almost impossible to understand with gestures, even if they use a calculator. When at noon we have arrived to the house of You, her mother has opened us the door almost without looking at us. The impossibility of communicating in English has worried us, but later, when You has arrived she has explained the problem to us. In the morning, her mother had received a call from the police asking why they were hosting so many foreigners, asking who they were, because they were not registered in a hotel, asking for all the data of their daughter... In short, the mother of You was well scared and she has already decided not to host anybody else. It is a pity, that some governments and the police are against the friendship among cultures, for that happened with Ullas, the boy of Queta in Pakistan, which since was visited by the secret police stopped hosting people from Couchsufing. Xian (see on map) 03/08/2009:
After saying goodbye with sorrow for the hundredth time to our friends ( whom we will probably not see again until America), we caught a train towards Xian. The night train of economic category surprised us for its tidiness and modernity, nothing to do with all the trains with which we had travelled previously. Besides, the train was so fine that until the following day I did not realise in the morning that the train was going with a different direction than the one I had imagined. So, we arrived on Friday in the morning well relaxed to Xian, where we found another surprise. Xian is the most expensive city visited up to the moment in China, where it is impossible to find two beds in a room shared by less than 8 euros. Finally we chose a small room with 8 beds, where we met Iñigo, a Basque who also complained about the prices of the hotels of Xian and about the costs of travelling through China in general. In this sense, Iñigo told us that on some occasion he had tried to sleep in economic hotels (where the middle class Chinese goes), but the police made him go to a hotel with licence to lodge tourists. Iñigo was travelling for two years, the last months in the company of a Philippine girl. Despite having the spirit and very young aspect, Iñigo had just reached his 40 years anniversary (three more that me), declaring that the best way of preserving youth was by travelling, for the happiness that contributes and the little stress. Even so, Iñigo was also discovering that to travel also can be stressful, in his case due to some incorrect payments on his credit card that he could not return for being found far away from home. In spite of everything, he was already considering the possibility to travel for the rest of his life but the lack of funds was a things that preoccupied him and in the same way limited him. It was this passion for travelling and for photography that allowed us to connect very well, although we did not do too many activities in common for the difference of timetables that we had (I can lose the head if I ask Alexandra to wake up before 8) and the way of travelling (they preferred walking 2 km before catching a local bus of 0,1 €). So, I visited the main touristic attractions of Xian, some alone and the other ones in company of Alexandra. Anyway, before I bought myself a new wide-angle lens for my camera, because in spite of the high prices of China, the electronic products can be 20 or 50% more economic that in Europe; and also the clothes, that's why I have also bought myself two jeans, because its been already almost three years that I travel with the same trousers and they already start to break. The biggest attraction of Xian are the warriors of terracotta that we have visited today, 6000 warriors that Qin had to protect the first emperor in the life after the death, buried for more than 2000 years until they were discovered casually by some peasants that dug a well to obtain water in 1974. The warriors of terracotta are the third big attraction of China, after the big Wall and the Prohibited City, but they have failed to impress me a little, or the city has rather defrauded me of splendour in general, because formerly Xian rivalled Rome and Constantinople for the bond of the biggest and most influential city, but at present it does not remain too much of this oldness, apart from the extraordinary walls of the fourteenth century of 12 km that surround a modern city. Of the same century, the tower of the bell that marked the entry per day and the tower of the drum that marked the entry to the darkness also rise up among the modern buildings. In a Muslim neighbourhood of little older homes I visited a mosque of completely Chinese style, except for the room of prayer, which is totally surrounded with big wooden altarpieces with all the Koran engraving in Arabic. And out of the walls, we also had the occasion of visiting an interesting Taoist temple, with the faithful ones adoring in a similar way as the Buddhists the statues of gods with beards and fine and long moustaches. Lanzhou (see on map) 06/08/2009: Lanzhou is found about 7 more hours by train to the west of Xian, in a valley with a very different landscape, for its aridity, that is favoured by the altitude (1600 m) and its nearness to the plateau of Tibet. It was thanks to this difference of climate that we could observe the blue sky for the first time in China for two days continuously, although it rained. In spite of everything we do not make too much use of the good time, for apart from wasting a couple of hours looking for a hotel that had a vacant room and walking through the city looking for some decent restaurant, we did not visit anything. The main reason was the approach of the date of extinction of the visa of China and the complications that come to arrive to Nepal by crossing the Autonomous region of Tibet (like this it is called in China, although I do not think that it is too much autonomous). It is impossible to enter in Tibet if it is not with a travel agency, and the prices can be astronomical (we had offers of 1000 or 1500 euro), although these can be quite a lot of more economic if they apply to a group of 3 or 4 people. I was quite a lot of hours connected to Internet analysing offers of agencies and looking for other people to share the journey with. In the end I found a couple that were going towards Tibet in a few days with a quite economic tour, but to be able to join them, we needed before to extend the visa of China, a formality which we thought to do in Xining. ‹ Previous (10/06/2009) MONTH Next (2009-08-09)› ‹ Previous (2009-06-08 - Malaysia) COUNTRY Next (2009-07-21 - China)› |
|
